Are you my protolith?: 2009

Hiking the Zion Narrows

Friday, October 9, 2009

Last Thursday, Tiffany and I drove down to Zion and got all our stuff, backcountry permits, gear, campsite, all of that. Hiking the Narrows requires jumping over a few hurdles. Only a certain number of people are given permits each day, and only 12 parties are allowed to actually camp overnight within the Narrows, so we were lucky to have reserved a spot a month in advance. There are three ways to hike the Narrows, you can dayhike the entire thing from top to bottom and get out before it's dark, you can do the overnight trip which allows you to really take it easy and enjoy it all more slowly, or you can do what most of the tourists do and hike in from the bottom up as far as you like (for most of them, that's maaaaybe 3 miles up the Narrows) before turning back. Bottom up hikers do not require a permit, but they're limited in exactly how far they're allowed to hike, though how anyone enforces that, I have no idea. Didn't see a ranger there at any time on our trip.

Tiffy and I woke up on Friday at 530, packed up camp, drove up to the visitor's center, and caught our trailhead shuttle just in time at 630. It was eerie and wonderful to be driving up out of Zion in near-total darkness, save for the bluish-black outlines of jagged mountains in the sky. Our bus driver told us that the indians thought that Zion was haunted, so they never, ever went into it but instead lived in an adjacent canyon system. I can see why.. .the rocks there look so strange, jutting out in all different directions, made of so many colors, with waterpockets and rock fins. An hour and a half after climbing into the shuttle, we arrived at the trailhead, located on Chamberlain's Ranch. It was FREEZING COLD, must have been in the mid to upper 40s so everyone was jittery. Tiff and I put on all our remaining clothes and still didn't feel very warm. SO glad I remembered to have us bring winter hat and gloves, we would have been in trouble without them.

The first 2 or 3 miles of the trail runs through this guy's ranch, so you're greeted with cow stares the entire way and lots of mooing as you walk along the gravel road. Finally, the mouth of the canyon started opening up and we made our first real river crossings.

We hiked 8 miles the first day, passing through what Tiff and I both felt was the most spectacular scenery of the entire hike. We reaaally took our time. The map said that it would only take us 5 hours to reach our campsite, but somehow it took us 7 hours. Here is a really good description from this website I found:

"The diverse trek through Zion's premier canyon is one of the most touted and breathtaking adventures in America. Extraordinary beauty and unique character describe this amazing gorge. Hanging gardens burst from dramatically colored perpendicular walls while trickling water threads its way through moss covered boulders. Gentle slopes give way to sheer walls funneling streams of water into fluted slides and twisting channels cutting deeper and deeper as the journey continues its path southward. Along the sandy perches of the banks, towering ponderosa send their roots downward, hungry for nutrients and water. The entire trip is wondrous. The Zion Narrows deserves its reputation as one of the best, if not the best, hike in the National Park System."

The park will not issue permits to do this hike if the river is running faster than 120 cfs, or if there is any rain within a 100-mile radius of the park. We were really lucky we went when we did because there were thunderstorms forecast for the very next day after we finished our hike.

I'd say that we crossed the north fork of the Virgin River at least 150 times on that first day. The entire trail is basically walking down a river, crisscrossing from one shallow section to another, with the occasional reprieve of a few sandy beach sections and some grassy forested parts. During the first day, we never encountered any sections more than knee-deep

Cool rocks --

The river is our trail --

Beautiful fall colors --

CHECK OUT THIS HUGE ROOT SYSTEM --

I love this picture, with that little patch of blue sky in the corner --

Gorgeous, we walked through here, between the walls --

Tiffany and I both agreed, the entire trek was like walking through a fairyland. We spent a minute here, pawing at the leaves --

Mmm, waterpockets - -

GAAAAAH --

The fall colors were incredible, and it was joyous to walk down the river with so many pretty leaves in pink and green and yellow and orange being whisked briskly downstream underfoot. LOOK HOW CLEAR THAT WATER IS!

Yes, our trail led directly into this little slot canyon --

Haha, here, Tiffany and I were approaching this from on top, wondering what was going on with the water suddenly disappearing over here, until we got to the edge and realized there was a 20-foot WATERFALL in our tiny canyon. The only way to get downstream is a skinny, steep, sandy passage between two rock fins to the left of this photo (not visible) --

Our favorite narrows were found on the first day --

Our campsite for the night is straight ahead, down this canyon between these walls, about 10 minutes beyond this point --

I'm always so impressed by the tenacity of trees --

Our campsite came with this wicked cool rock to lean all of our stuff up against --

With view of the river --

We arrived around 5 pm and had eaten dinner and had our hot chocolate by 6 pm. After hanging everything up to dry, we crashed in our sleeping bags and slept until 730am the next morning, that's how tired we were.

Tiffany was smart and brought an alarm with her and woke us up in time to get moving. We had oatmeal and hot chocolate for breakfast, packed up camp, and headed out by 9am. The second day was very, very difficult. The hike is strenuous, there's no doubt about that, and it's not for everyone. While the gradient is gentle, there are numerous obstacles to work your way around and lots of deep sections where you almost have to swim. Lots of boulder hopping and scrambling and swift-current crossings over little rapids and scouting out how to get to the most shallow side of the river. There were a few areas where we had to crawl over log-jammed debris from previous flash floods... There is no way anyone could survive a flash flood in there. It was in the back of my mind the entire time. After 3 miles or so we hit a lovely place called Big Springs, where three waterfalls flow out of the base of a 200-ft rock wall --

After this point, the longest section of narrows begins, requires 2.5 hours of hiking/swimming/fording, and there is no safe high-ground anywhere along the stretch, should a flash flood occur. I was very nervous about it. Okay, really scared, actually. But we plunged ahead, dealing with every single obstacle we came across (there were quite a few). There was one point where the sheer cliff walls were ten feet apart, with nothing between them but the river, chest-deep for 100 yards, that we had to gingerly hop/float down (with our big packs on). That part was really cool! Seriously, kinda fun. Later on, we hit another really deep section, up to our necks almost. After that point, we started to see the dayhikers hiking up from the bottom and then the place got really crowded with loads of tourists hiking up with no poles, wearing ridiculous things like flip flops.

Tiffany in one of the more shallow sections on the second day --

My one photo of the most photographed section of the Narrows, this section is called Wall Street for obvious reasons. Just incredible --

So we made it out of there alive, 16 amazing, awe-inspiring, tough miles in 2 days, and now I can cross that one off my list. Afterwards we caught the shuttle back to the visitor's center, picked up my car, returned our gear, and immediately went to the first restaurant we saw, which was the Spotted Dog Cafe. I had mesquite chicken with vegetables and sweet potato fries and a glass of riesling, and Tiffany had pasta. Also bought a plate of flat bread and hummus. DELICIOUS food, fantastic service.

I am so grateful to Tffany for coming along with me and so proud of her for facing all of those obstacles and for overcoming her fear of heights and swift-current river crossings in order to get the job done. We sure had an adventure!

A couple final photos of Dinosaur

Taken during a run --

Taken on my very last day in the field --

Kayaking

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Kelly and I got a play permit and went kayaking on the Green from Split Mountain Campground to the Monument's boundary, a distance of maybe 6 or 7 miles. We had fun riffles for the first few miles, but then flat water prevailed and it was slow-going for the rest. It was fun to be back in the river again. Here is Kelly with the Weber Sandstone (the blocky white rock in back) and the Park City Formation (alternating yellows and red) which marks the end of the Permian. The Weber ss is older and the Park City Fm is younger. Over 90% of life on Earth went extinct between the Park City Formation and the next formation (the Moenkopi, not visible here).

Guess what this is.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

I am a desert rat

More wisdom from Edward Abbey.

Wilderness. The word itself is music.

Wilderness, wilderness . . . . We scarcely know what we mean by the term, though the sound of it draws all whose nerves and emotions have not yet been irreparably stunned, deadened, numbed by the caterwauling of commerce, the sweating scramble for profit and domination.

Why such allure in the very word? What does it really mean? Can wilderness be defined in the words of government officialdom as simply "A minimum of not less than 5000 contiguous acres of roadless area"? This much may be essential in attempting a definition but it is not sufficient; something more is involved.

Suppose we say that wilderness invokes nostalgia, a justified not merely sentimental nostalgia for the lost America our forefathers knew. The word suggests the past and the unknown, the womb of earth from which we all emerged. It means something lost and something still present, something remote and at the same time intimate, something buried in our blood and nerves, something beyond us and without limit. Romance - but not to be dismissed on that account. The romantic view, while not the whole of truth, is a necessary part of the whole truth.

But the love of wilderness is more than a hunger for what is always beyond reach; it is also an expression of loyalty to the earth, the earth which bore us and sustains us, the only home we shall ever know, the only paradise we ever need - if only we had the eyes to see. Original sin, the true original sin, is the blind destruction for the sake of greed of this natural paradise which lies all around us - if only we were worthy of it.

Now when I write of paradise I mean Paradise, not the banal Heaven of the saints. When I write "paradise" I mean not only apple trees and golden women but also scorpions and tarantulas and flies, rattlesnakes and Gila monsters, sandstorms, volcanoes and earthquakes, bacteria and bear, cactus, yucca, bladderweed, ocotillo and mesquite, flash floods and quicksand, and yes - disease and death and the rotting of the flesh.

Paradise is not a garden of bliss and changeless perfection where the lions lie down like lambs (what would they eat?) and the angels and cherubim and seraphim rotate in endless idiotic circles, like clockwork, about an equally inane and ludicrous - however roseate - Unmoved Mover. (Play safe; worship only in clockwise direction; let's all have fun together.) That particular painted fantasy of a realm beyond time and space which Aristotle and the Church Fathers tried to palm off on us has met, in modern times, only neglect and indifference, passing on into the oblivion it so richly deserved, while the Paradise of which I write and wish to praise is with us yet, the here and now, the actual, tangible, dogmatically real earth on which we stand. (166-167)

Alone in the silence, I understand for a moment the dread which many feel in the presence of primeval desert, the unconscious fear which compels them to tame, alter or destroy what they cannot understand, to reduce the wild and prehuman to human dimensions. Anything rather than confront directly the antehuman, that other world which frightens not through danger or hostility but in something far worse - its implacable indifference. (191)

There is something about the desert. . . . There is something there which mountains, no matter how grand and beautiful, lack; which the sea, no matter how shining and vast and old, does not have. (243)

Even after years of intimate contact and search this quality of strangeness in the desert remains undiminished. Transparent and intangible as sunlight, yet always and everywhere present, it lures a man on and on, from the red-walled canyons to the smoke-blue ranges beyond, in a futile but fascinating quest for the great, unimaginable treasure which the desert seems to promise. Once caught by this golden lure you become a prospector for life, condemned, doomed, exalted. (242)

(Abbey, Edward. Desert Solitaire: A Season in the Wilderness. 1968. New York: Peregrine Smith, 1981.)

Flaming Gorge

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Flaming Gorge had been sitting up there, 40 miles away, the entire summer without my paying it a single visit. Just the name itself is enticing. Yesterday I finally made the drive up from the valley, past Steinaker and Red Fleet reservoirs, on to the plateau further north.

View down into the valley near where I live:

Mostly, I came to hike. The sky was bright blue, sun was shining, and I had a trail map. But first things first, gotta see the dam. I understand the thought process and reasoning for building dams... the west is dry and overpopulated. People need water and they need it to be there even during years of drought. People also like electricity, and the turbines like this one at Flaming Gorge,

that spin in perpetuum at the base of these dams produce enough electricity to power a city of 32,000 people. And I must admit the engineering feat of constructing a giant concrete wall that safely and successfully holds back billions of gallons of water is enough to flutter the heart with national pride.

But the cost of doing such a thing, in my perspective, is unforgivable. For recreation and electricity and water, we trade the extinction of entire fish species. We drown miles and miles of exquisite canyon walls, displacing land animals and destroying archeological sites. So many of the little side canyons and tributaries that Powell named on his course down the Green and the Grand are lost forever. I'm not doing a good job of this, Edward Abbey says it best about dams:

The beavers had to go and build another goddamned dam on the Colorado. Not satisfied with the enormous silt trap and evaporation tank called Lake Mead (back of Boulder Dam) they have created another even bigger, even more destructive, in Glen Canyon. This reservoir of stagnant water will not irrigate a single square foot of land or supply water for a single village; its only justification is the generation of cash through electricity for the indirect subsidy of various real estate speculators, cottongrowers and sugarbeet magnates in Arizona, Utah and Colorado; also, of course, to keep the engineers and managers of the Reclamation Bureau off the streets and out of trouble.
The impounded waters form an artificial lake named Powell, supposedly to honor but actually to dishonor the memory, spirit and vision of Major John Wesley Powell, first American to make a systematic exploration of the Colorado Riiver and its environs. Where he and his brave men once lined the rapids and glided through silent canyons two thousand feet deep the motorboats now smoke and whine, scumming the water with cigarette butts, beer cans and oil, dragging the water skiers on their endless rounds, clockwise.
PLAY SAFE, read the official signboards; SKI ONLY IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION; LET'S ALL HAVE FUN TOGETHER! With regulations enforced by water cops in government uniforms. Sold. Down the river.
Once it was different there. I know, for I was one of the lucky few (there could have been thousands more) who saw Glen Canyon before it was drowned. In fact I saw only a part of it but enough to realize that here was an Eden, a portion of the earth's original paradise. To grasp the nature of the crime that was committed imagine the Taj Mahal or Chartres Cathedral buried in mud until only the spires remain visible. With this difference: those man-made celebrations of human aspiration could conceivably be reconstructed while Glen Canyon was a living thing, irreplaceable, which can never be recovered through any human agency.

I am strongly opposed to dams. But I took the tour anyway. Here she is:

We went down 800 feet inside the dam to the base of it to feed the rainbow trout and other transplanted fish who now live out their entire lives right at this spot. Seriously, the tour guide said that these fish do not migrate any further down the river because they have all the food they can get from tourists like me who giddily put quarters into chumpy fish food dispensers. Eight free meals a day! They sure were ravenous...

On one side of the dam, the now-regulated Green River flows happily along its entrenched course:

On the other side, we have this:

The Flaming Gorge bathtub!

Despite the destruction of nature that it is... I must say I enjoyed myself. The views were stunning, the wildlife ever-present, the scents of pinyon pine, juniper, and sage, sublime. If I could bottle one scent, to carry with me forever in rememberance of a place, it would be these three combined. One whiff and I'm transported back to every hike this summer. Sensory overload. Pure, high desert bliss.

I drove over to the Red Canyon visitor's center and hiked 5 miles of the Red Canyon Rim trail, an easy jaunt of a trail with practically no elevation change and some spectacular views. The weather started changing as soon as I set out, the clouds weighed dark and heavy above but there was no thunder, so I kept going. The suddenly cool temperatures were peeeeerfect. Didn't see another person on the trail for the entire 5 miles, but instead got to quietly pass by 5 deer who were grazing between the trees. Two of them got skittish, crossed the trail in front of me, and bounded off. The other three would only lift their heads to watch me. Existential epiphanies when encountering a non-human creature who is watching you as intently and curiously as you are it...

While on the trail, I perched on a rock to eat and read parts of The Immense Journey. The birds were swooping and soaring all around me. Nowhere in the world have I ever been so startled by birds as here in Dinosaur country. You can be hanging out at a viewpoint or sitting on a cliff and suddenly, something that sounds like the dull crack of a whip goes thundering by: turkey vultures, osprey, hawks, falcons, even golden eagles. I have near heart-attacks when the growling drum of a hummingbird zooms into my airspace out of absolutely nowhere, to hover and stare at the colors on my clothes. Love it.

Sat with my feet dangling above the trees for almost an hour:

Right next to this fellow who was growing straight up out of a ROCK:

Afterwards, I took a drive, tried to go on the Sheep Creek Geological Loop, but the road was awful and I am hyper-paranoid about my car's tires at the moment, and it was pouring rain, so I turned around after five miles of potholes.

The colors and trees got me so high. Felt like Vermont in October.

Big horn sheep!

The river is running to the south; the mountains have an easterly and westerly trend directly athwart its course, yet it glides on in a quiet way as if it thought a mountain range no formidable obstruction. It enters the range by a flaring, brilliant red gorge, that may be seen from the north a score of miles away. The great mass of the mountain ridge through which the gorge is cut is composed of bright vermilion rocks; but they are surmounted by broad bands of mottled buff and gray,and these bands come down with a gentle curve to the water's edge on the nearer slope of the mountain.This is the head of the first of the canyons we are about to explore--an introductory one to a series made by the river through this range. We name it Flaming Gorge. -John Wesley Powell

140 million years in 10 seconds

Friday, September 18, 2009

Posting this particular cartoon right before setting off to attempt King's Peak is basically thumbing my nose at the sky. But here it is anyway.

If you can't read the caption, it says "PLEISTOCENE!...MIOCENE!...CRETACEOUS!..." haha

Timpanogos

Friday, September 11, 2009

Tiffy and I went HIKING! (aw Tiff, remember "let's go hiking" ...to the living room, hahaha). We didn't quite make it to the top of Timpanogos, but we DID make it to the first of the lakes up there, about 5.5 miles up the mountain. The summit was another mile and a half away, but it was already getting to be too late in the day to make a push for it (we only had a tiny flashlight, and trying to hike down a canyon with steep-sided switchbacks in the dark is not very smart.. or fun).

Tiffany is up for anything,

Including THIS

lushy verdant green growing happy,

The crystal clear lake we stopped at,

The lake is sitting directly above this waterfall, feeding it. “…And if those devils come back and try any rough stuff, we’ll fight them together, boy, like we did just now, eh? You with the old gun, and me with the belt and the ammo, feeding you, Jack. Feed me, you said, and I was feeding you, Jack!”

These guys were totally gorging themselves on sweet, sweet nector,

Utterly oblivious,

We were out on this sleeping princess for 9 hours! I love hiking with my squishy. Thanks Tiff!

Quarry day

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

There was a film crew out here last friday to film Brooks, his BYU crew and I as we worked to extract the remaining bones from the active quarry here. It was a long (and fun) 12-hour day with really really good food provided by the filming guys.

Couldn't ask for a more beautiful location.

The bedding plane at this quarry is dipping at about a 70° angle, which makes for interesting extraction. You end up working with bones stacked like this:

You can see the angle of dip better in this shot with Brooks: